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NoZone Pack by ARCTERYX
By: Arc'teryx       Average Rating: 4.0     Total Reviews: 1
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Versatile Alpine Pack     On: 2005-02-04

My goal was to find a pack that could be used to haul enough gear to spend six days up at a 12,000 base camp at the Sierras Palisades Glacier, and then stripped down for technical rock and ice climbs.

Its a little small for a week long trip carrying both rock and ice climbing gear, but managable with a few items like helmet, rope, and crampons attached to the outside. It sure beats using a larger pack on approach, while also carrying a smaller summit pack along for the technical climbing.

The frame sheet and stays provide enough support to haul about a 50 pound load ten rugged miles into basecamp. This suspension can then be removed, reducing the packs weight down to a little over two pounds for the serious climbing. Last month it performed beautifully in stripped down condition on a steep approach and up a five pitch ice climb. The compression straps reduced the pack to an ideal shape for my light load on this day climb. In addition, the pack is flexible enough for serious climbing once the suspension is removed. The large padded hipbelt can be removed, and replaced with a webbing belt (provided.) Both belts have gear loops for racking your climbing pro.

While not as comfortable as a backpacking style of pack like a Bora, this pack seems to be in a class of its own as far as being a good size pack that can serve as both an approach pack with a solid suspension that can be converted into a lightweight technical climbing pack.

It could be improved by adding an internal sleeve for a hydration bladder. In addition, you have to be careful how you pack it to achieve good support and comfort with heavier loads.

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